So I'm sad to report this and am now refunding the a16mk2 ae.
At least I go back to making music rather than trouble shooting.
Opening up XITE
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Liquid EDGE
- Posts: 1205
- Joined: Sun Apr 04, 2004 4:00 pm
- Location: Brighton England
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Re: Opening up XITE
I got a ada8200. not a single click so far. And it's slaved over Adat. Xite is master.
So I'm sad to report this and am now refunding the a16mk2 ae.
At least I go back to making music rather than trouble shooting.
So I'm sad to report this and am now refunding the a16mk2 ae.
At least I go back to making music rather than trouble shooting.
Last edited by Liquid EDGE on Thu Nov 17, 2016 3:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Opening up XITE
Holy COW!!! lololol I should take a video of this.
So... ok I decided to check for myself about all this ADAT stuff again. I connected 4 ADAT cables between XITE and A16 (cables came with XITE, I believe and are properly routed from XITE IN to A16 OUT and vice versa). Opened a test project that worked fine with Z-Link.
Basically what I see with both ADAT A & B source modules connected to the STM2448 mixer is:
channels 10-16 input (ADAT B Source) are showing full VU (0 db) crackling. Raising the fader on any of those channels reveals constant crackling static. Oddly, channel 9 (which would be the first channel of ADAT B Source) shows no activity at all.
channels 1-8 (ADAT A Source) show random popping across all channels (but never more than two channels simultaneously).
Scope is set to Master. One odd thing: there is no sync LED lit on the A16 indicating ADAT connectivity/sync. If I try to cycle through the sync options to get to ADAT, the ADAT LED just flashes for a sec and then turns off. Seems like abnormal behavior. I would expect A16 ADAT LED to be "on". The Z-Link LED is on when using Z-Link cables.
I plead ignorance here since I never use ADAT. Any ideas?
PS I don't have a clock cable (although I did order one yesterday and expect it to arrive today or tomorrow). Don't know if that will actually help or not.
PSS The more I think about this, I think this is the same behavior I saw a couple years back when I first got XITE and tried running with ADAT.
So... ok I decided to check for myself about all this ADAT stuff again. I connected 4 ADAT cables between XITE and A16 (cables came with XITE, I believe and are properly routed from XITE IN to A16 OUT and vice versa). Opened a test project that worked fine with Z-Link.
Basically what I see with both ADAT A & B source modules connected to the STM2448 mixer is:
channels 10-16 input (ADAT B Source) are showing full VU (0 db) crackling. Raising the fader on any of those channels reveals constant crackling static. Oddly, channel 9 (which would be the first channel of ADAT B Source) shows no activity at all.
channels 1-8 (ADAT A Source) show random popping across all channels (but never more than two channels simultaneously).
Scope is set to Master. One odd thing: there is no sync LED lit on the A16 indicating ADAT connectivity/sync. If I try to cycle through the sync options to get to ADAT, the ADAT LED just flashes for a sec and then turns off. Seems like abnormal behavior. I would expect A16 ADAT LED to be "on". The Z-Link LED is on when using Z-Link cables.
I plead ignorance here since I never use ADAT. Any ideas?
PS I don't have a clock cable (although I did order one yesterday and expect it to arrive today or tomorrow). Don't know if that will actually help or not.
PSS The more I think about this, I think this is the same behavior I saw a couple years back when I first got XITE and tried running with ADAT.
Re: Opening up XITE
yeah make a video i would like to see that.
you did unplug the Z-Link cables before testing the ADAT right?
you did unplug the Z-Link cables before testing the ADAT right?
Re: Opening up XITE
Yes Z-Link cables are unplugged 100%yayajohn wrote:yeah make a video i would like to see that.
you did unplug the Z-Link cables before testing the ADAT right?
Just noticed something. if I switch SCOPE to 44.1 the problem goes away. 48 = noise, 44.1 = no noise
Yep - did some testing and all signals are fine at 44.1. dead quiet. Still no indicator light on the A16 though.
A16 futzed out?
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Liquid EDGE
- Posts: 1205
- Joined: Sun Apr 04, 2004 4:00 pm
- Location: Brighton England
- Contact:
Re: Opening up XITE
One of the older black face Sonic Core A16's. I also have an even older Creamware A16 but that one is in pieces lol (I think it still works though maybe I should .... ugh forget it lol)
btw: are you really going to return your unit? I'm wondering... something...
btw: are you really going to return your unit? I'm wondering... something...
Re: Opening up XITE
If it helps at all I have found some success with syncing my Xite-1 to my Scope Pro cards via ADAT by doing the following. Both the Xite PCIe card and the Scope Pro PCI cards are in the same computer. I don't think that is an influencing factor though as this also works when I previously used to have the Xite connected to a laptop while the PCI cards were still in my main daw pc. I have found that when I have scope PCI as master clock and Xite as slave, I sometimes have clicks and pops, but if I set scope PCI to slave, then set Scope Xite to master Clock, I then nearly always get perfect sync again. If I then set scope Xite back to slave and Scope PCI back to master clock, this usually works too the second time around. Sometimes I have to do it once or twice for the sync to work without clicks. I am on windows 7 32bit and sample rate is 48khz
I realise this is a slightly different setup than you guys above as my 2 x A16 U converters are connected via z-link to one of the 3 x Scope Pro PCI cards. For me that works as a better setup due to the higher number of connections possible directly from the PCI cards which essentially work as one unit, rather than the Xite's relatively more limited I/O. If only they had added MADI to Xite, or Z-Link to the newer ferrofish A16 MK2 units I would probably have gone that route.
Anyway, I thought this might be worth you trying out just in case it works. Presumably on the ferrofish you can change the settings from slave to master after first setting Xite to slave, or maybe try changing the ferrofish to master first and then set Xite to slave and see if that helps stop the pops. Best of luck
I realise this is a slightly different setup than you guys above as my 2 x A16 U converters are connected via z-link to one of the 3 x Scope Pro PCI cards. For me that works as a better setup due to the higher number of connections possible directly from the PCI cards which essentially work as one unit, rather than the Xite's relatively more limited I/O. If only they had added MADI to Xite, or Z-Link to the newer ferrofish A16 MK2 units I would probably have gone that route.
Anyway, I thought this might be worth you trying out just in case it works. Presumably on the ferrofish you can change the settings from slave to master after first setting Xite to slave, or maybe try changing the ferrofish to master first and then set Xite to slave and see if that helps stop the pops. Best of luck
Re: Opening up XITE
I'm moving my comments about the noise over here. There's more detail and attention about the problem here.
http://forums.scopeusers.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=34469
http://forums.scopeusers.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=34469
Re: Opening up XITE
Got quiet over here lol Thought I'd update.
I got the 3rd-party replacement TOSLINK connectors in from Canada (both receiver and transmitter versions). I haven't had time to do anything though because of the holiday and other goings-on. But I did visually inspect them and they look like perfect replacements for the Toshiba OEM parts. The only obvious difference is, these new parts use the old style removable plastic plugs vs. the shutter doors on the Toshibas. Because I haven't looked very close yet, I'm not 100% sure, but the new parts might be just a fraction taller than the Toshibas which could pose a problem with the alignment of the back panel openings. This may be a moot point though because...
I was also able to obtain some of the original OEM Toshibas and am waiting for those to arrive. I think I will wait and use the Toshiba part as I would prefer not to have to do a lot of unsoldering/soldering to the PCB. I just don't want to risk ruining the circuit traces. The less futzing the better. Plus there won't be (hopefully) any issues with size and spacing. I was considering replacing all four connectors if I used the Canada parts. That issue goes away with the OEM Toshibas. For what it's worth, the Canada parts cost me a total of $60 (two of each receiver/transmitter and shipping charges from Canada). I haven't been invoiced yet for the Toshibas but I expect them to cost about the same. Getting the Toshibas wasn't easy and I doubt I would ever be able to get more (not that I would ever need more).
On a side note: I had found some Toshibas here in the US but they were through a broker and they were wanting to charge me almost $100 per part! No one wants to sell onesies and twosies of those things. lol
I don't know if any of this information helps anyone else but I thought I'd share the adventure just in case.
I got the 3rd-party replacement TOSLINK connectors in from Canada (both receiver and transmitter versions). I haven't had time to do anything though because of the holiday and other goings-on. But I did visually inspect them and they look like perfect replacements for the Toshiba OEM parts. The only obvious difference is, these new parts use the old style removable plastic plugs vs. the shutter doors on the Toshibas. Because I haven't looked very close yet, I'm not 100% sure, but the new parts might be just a fraction taller than the Toshibas which could pose a problem with the alignment of the back panel openings. This may be a moot point though because...
I was also able to obtain some of the original OEM Toshibas and am waiting for those to arrive. I think I will wait and use the Toshiba part as I would prefer not to have to do a lot of unsoldering/soldering to the PCB. I just don't want to risk ruining the circuit traces. The less futzing the better. Plus there won't be (hopefully) any issues with size and spacing. I was considering replacing all four connectors if I used the Canada parts. That issue goes away with the OEM Toshibas. For what it's worth, the Canada parts cost me a total of $60 (two of each receiver/transmitter and shipping charges from Canada). I haven't been invoiced yet for the Toshibas but I expect them to cost about the same. Getting the Toshibas wasn't easy and I doubt I would ever be able to get more (not that I would ever need more).
On a side note: I had found some Toshibas here in the US but they were through a broker and they were wanting to charge me almost $100 per part! No one wants to sell onesies and twosies of those things. lol
I don't know if any of this information helps anyone else but I thought I'd share the adventure just in case.
Re: Opening up XITE
I hope this will be my final update on the issue of the TOSLINK connector 
I also hope this information might help someone else.
I was able to remove and replace the broken TOSLINK connector and replace it with the alternate Canadian part that I had ordered previously.
XITE was tested and is functioning normally. In my case, I replaced a receiving connector (ADAT B in). I checked to make sure signals were passing correctly from my A16. All appears normal.
I am not 100% sure about the mfg of the replacement part but I believe it is this company:
http://www.hy1688.com.tw/english/hy_en_index.htm
As mentioned previously, parts were purchased through this Canadian company:
http://www.sysconcept.ca/
If there is a US source for this part I'm not aware. I paid approx $10 USD per part. Shipping was rather expensive coming from Canada but I'm not complaining.
Removing the damaged connector from XITE was XITE-ing to say the least. I'm a pretty good solderer and have a lot of experience which helped. I will tell you that removing the damaged connector wasn't easy. There are 5 leads that have to be unsoldered and they are small, thin leads which pass through the PCB. Removing the solder from the holes wasn't working initially so I ended up breaking the old connector housing (cutting/crushing it into pieces which wasn't too hard ), leaving the copper leads exposed. Removing the remaining "exposed" leads was easy at that point. The next challenge was removing the excess solder from the 5 small PCB holes. This is a double-sided PCB so there are solder pads on both sides of the board (not sure if it's a multi-layer board but I don't think it is). If you're going to attempt this, you will definitely need flux and solder wick. A solder sucker and the ol' "heat and tap" method wasn't working for me. These holes are too small. Even with solder wick it was a challenge. I was trying not to damage the PCB traces. Be very careful and patient if you do this. I ended up using a small sewing needle to finish clearing out the holes.
Anyway, once I got the holes cleared of excess solder, the new part plopped right in. I noticed right away that the new part was a tad taller than the other connectors. I did an eye-ball fit with the XITE cover to see if the new connector would line-up properly with the back panel openings. It was very close but still too tall. The solution was to trim away 4 smallish plastic bumps on the bottom of the TOSLINK housing. Easily trimmed away with an X-Acto knife. Once I did that, the new connector was exactly the same height as the other connectors.
The replacement connector uses a removable plastic plug (instead of the swinging shutter or door). But I don't care. I thought briefly about replacing ALL the connectors with the new type but if it ain't broke don't fix it. lol. I'm going to let the unit burn-in for a few days and keep watching just to make sure all is well. I don't know what to expect as far as component life is concerned. I don't know what the longevity of these TOSLINK connectors is under normal operating conditions. Like anything electronic, I'm sure they have a life span. There was nothing in the technical data to specify life time in hours so who knows.
I am happy to close the book on this nonsense. I do not regret the effort involved. If it means I don't have to deal with random pops or clicks in my recordings anymore, it will have been time and money well spent. I'm pissed I broke that connector in the first place but I'm over it now lol. Anyway, that's the end of my story. Cheers.
I also hope this information might help someone else.I was able to remove and replace the broken TOSLINK connector and replace it with the alternate Canadian part that I had ordered previously.
XITE was tested and is functioning normally. In my case, I replaced a receiving connector (ADAT B in). I checked to make sure signals were passing correctly from my A16. All appears normal.
I am not 100% sure about the mfg of the replacement part but I believe it is this company:
http://www.hy1688.com.tw/english/hy_en_index.htm
As mentioned previously, parts were purchased through this Canadian company:
http://www.sysconcept.ca/
If there is a US source for this part I'm not aware. I paid approx $10 USD per part. Shipping was rather expensive coming from Canada but I'm not complaining.
Removing the damaged connector from XITE was XITE-ing to say the least. I'm a pretty good solderer and have a lot of experience which helped. I will tell you that removing the damaged connector wasn't easy. There are 5 leads that have to be unsoldered and they are small, thin leads which pass through the PCB. Removing the solder from the holes wasn't working initially so I ended up breaking the old connector housing (cutting/crushing it into pieces which wasn't too hard ), leaving the copper leads exposed. Removing the remaining "exposed" leads was easy at that point. The next challenge was removing the excess solder from the 5 small PCB holes. This is a double-sided PCB so there are solder pads on both sides of the board (not sure if it's a multi-layer board but I don't think it is). If you're going to attempt this, you will definitely need flux and solder wick. A solder sucker and the ol' "heat and tap" method wasn't working for me. These holes are too small. Even with solder wick it was a challenge. I was trying not to damage the PCB traces. Be very careful and patient if you do this. I ended up using a small sewing needle to finish clearing out the holes.
Anyway, once I got the holes cleared of excess solder, the new part plopped right in. I noticed right away that the new part was a tad taller than the other connectors. I did an eye-ball fit with the XITE cover to see if the new connector would line-up properly with the back panel openings. It was very close but still too tall. The solution was to trim away 4 smallish plastic bumps on the bottom of the TOSLINK housing. Easily trimmed away with an X-Acto knife. Once I did that, the new connector was exactly the same height as the other connectors.
The replacement connector uses a removable plastic plug (instead of the swinging shutter or door). But I don't care. I thought briefly about replacing ALL the connectors with the new type but if it ain't broke don't fix it. lol. I'm going to let the unit burn-in for a few days and keep watching just to make sure all is well. I don't know what to expect as far as component life is concerned. I don't know what the longevity of these TOSLINK connectors is under normal operating conditions. Like anything electronic, I'm sure they have a life span. There was nothing in the technical data to specify life time in hours so who knows.
I am happy to close the book on this nonsense. I do not regret the effort involved. If it means I don't have to deal with random pops or clicks in my recordings anymore, it will have been time and money well spent. I'm pissed I broke that connector in the first place but I'm over it now lol. Anyway, that's the end of my story. Cheers.